North Illawarra, South of the Bridge
Words and pictures by Matt Bernard
Some destinations are discovered. Others feel like they've always been part of your story.
Long before we owned a caravan, before campground reviews and social media travel inspiration, my family spent countless holidays around Corrimal on the NSW South Coast. Some of my earliest memories involve sandy feet, sunburnt noses and riding BMX bikes around Corrimal Caravan Park. Back then, holidays were simple. Nobody was chasing hidden gems or building bucket lists. We rode those bikes until dark, spent entire days at the beach and returned home to camp exhausted, salty and happy.
The funny thing is, we never really stopped coming.
These days we still camp at Corrimal over the Christmas holidays. Only now it's my own daughters racing around the caravan park while my Mum and Dad are set up nearby. The generations have changed but the traditions remain remarkably familiar. Beach walks still fill our days; the ocean still dictates our plans and a meat raffle win at the Towradgi Bowling Club remains a cause for celebration. Some of my fondest childhood memories are of staying with my grandparents in their 1978 Jayco caravan. Looking back now, it seemed enormous. It was the centrepiece of family holidays and the vehicle that introduced me to a life of camping and caravanning. As the years passed, the accommodation changed, but the destination often remained the same.
When a photograph I entered in a competition won our family a stay at Bulli Beach Tourist Park, it gave us the perfect excuse to explore a stretch of coastline that had always been close to home. Despite decades of holidays in the greater Illawarra area, we'd somehow never spent much time in Bulli itself. What followed was a reminder of just how much the Northern Illawarra has evolved.
Arriving After Dark
The trip from Rylstone was a slow one, but intentionally so. Before heading to the coast, we made a detour through Penrith to visit my nan. The girls know her as GG, and opportunities to spend time together are too important to rush past. By the time we said our goodbyes, the sun had set and we wound our way down Bulli Pass after dark, with the Pacific Ocean hidden somewhere beyond the blackness.
We rolled into Bulli Beach Tourist Park guided mostly by campsite lights. The rain had eased, the kids were tired and after setting up the essentials on what was the biggest van site we had ever had, dinner became a simple cheeseburger cook-up before calling it a night. It wasn't exactly the dramatic coastal arrival we'd imagined. As it turns out, that made the following morning even better. Stepping outside the van felt like somebody had lifted a curtain.
The Pacific stretched endlessly beyond the dunes; Norfolk Pines lined the foreshore and the Illawarra Escarpment towered behind us. One of the first things you'll notice about Bulli is how easy it is. Once the van is parked, there's very little reason to get back in the car. Cafés, beaches, playgrounds and walking paths are all within easy reach, making it an ideal destination for families wanting to slow down and settle into holiday mode.
Life Happens Outside
The day arrives gently in a caravan park. Long before the sun properly clears the horizon, there's a softness to everything. Waves fold onto the shore with the same rhythm they've followed all night while a faint glow begins to spread across the water, turning black into blue and blue into gold. Then, almost without noticing, the park begins to wake. A tent zip tears through the silence. A kettle whistles. The smell of bacon drifts across the morning air. Somewhere nearby, a child on training wheels rattles across the concrete roads with all the subtlety of a shopping trolley missing a wheel. The sound bounces around the campground like a public announcement that the kids are awake, and the adults can forget about sleeping in.
A few sites away, a cordless drill bursts into life. Every caravan park has one enthusiastic packer. While the rest of us are still deciding whether a second coffee is necessary, they've already wound up the awning, packed the chairs and are halfway through hitching up the van.
The soundtrack continues to build. The garbage truck arrives for its daily collection, lifting the communal metal bins with enough crashing and banging to wake anybody who somehow slept through the training wheels. Nearby, parents begin the universal holiday ritual of repeatedly shushing excited children who are already operating at full volume.
We know the feeling well. It's hard to explain campsite etiquette to kids who spend most of their lives roaming 100 acres back home. For a few precious moments, the entire park seems suspended between sleeping and living. Between yesterday's adventures and whatever todays might become.
The Best Moments Weren't Planned
Competitors carved through some small but clean swell while families gathered along the headland and kids raced around the beach. It wasn't something we'd planned to see, but it felt like a perfect snapshot of local life.
Nearby, the historic Sandon Point Boat Sheds remain one of the most photographed landmarks on the coastline and a reminder of the area's deep connection to the ocean. Originally built more than 120 years ago to support local fishing families, the corrugated iron sheds are the last surviving examples of structures that once dotted the Northern Illawarra coastline. Having weathered storms, changing industries and generations of ownership, they remain an enduring symbol of Bulli's maritime heritage.
Somewhere between beach walks, playground visits and swims in the ocean, Oakah decided it was time to ditch the training wheels. Like most parents, we offered plenty of encouragement and very little useful advice. Then suddenly she was off. Of all the things we experienced during the trip, that may well be the memory that lasts the longest.
That afternoon, Oakah rested the legs and proudly claimed the front seat of my bike for a family ride along the coastal cycleway to Resin Brewing Co. Within minutes we were rolling along the bike path, ocean on one side, escarpment on the other, heading towards live music, good food and a well-earned drink. The brewery buzzed with locals who listened to the acoustic tunes. Nobody seemed to be in a hurry. By the time we pointed the bikes back towards camp, the sun was beginning to sink behind the escarpment. The sky softened into shades of orange and pink while the coastline took on that golden glow photographers spend their lives chasing.
A Day Slowing Down
One of the best days of the trip was also one of the simplest. The morning began with a walk along the beach before quickly turning into one of those classic holiday days where there was nowhere else we needed to be. The girls alternated between swimming and building sandcastles while Treen settled into a good book beneath the sun. I swam. The girls swam. Eventually, after plenty of encouragement and assurances that it really wasn't that cold, despite it being a winters day, Treen made her way into the water too. To be fair, she wasn't entirely wrong - the water was fresh.
Later that afternoon we headed into nearby Thirroul, one of the most charming towns along the coastline. It has some great little shops, a historic theatre, funky Mexican restaurant and a cool pub. Everly carefully considered how best to spend the last of her Christmas money before eventually settling on a new book from the local bookstore. Watching a kid spend holiday money on books instead of toys felt like a parenting win worth celebrating.
From there we made our way to Bulli Heritage Hotel. Recently renovated, the historic pub has been given a fresh new lease on life, complete with a stunning outdoor area that's perfect for long afternoons with family and friends. Live music drifted through the venue, families gathered around long tables and the atmosphere was exactly what you'd hope for from a coastal pub at the end of a perfect beach day. The menu was a ripper too, packed with crowd-pleasing favourites and quality pub fare. A local Pinnacle beer quickly found its way into my hand while Illawarra performer Grace Mae worked through an afternoon set and the girls found room to explore.
As the sun began its descent, we headed back to camp to grab the fishing rods and make our way onto the sand. Apparently, we weren't there to catch fish - just to feed them. The girls loved flicking bait into the wash and watching the ocean come alive as the light faded from the day.
Another Chapter
Our morning stop was 34 Degrees South for breakfast on our final day, the first time we'd sat down for a meal out during the trip, the takeaway coffees there had hit the spot each morning, however. Outside, Bulli Beach Tourist Park felt almost peaceful. The long weekend crowds had disappeared, and the park had settled into a slower rhythm. Neither of the girls wanted to leave. There were still bikes to ride, beaches to explore and holiday adventures to be had. And honestly, neither did we.
As we pulled out of the park and began the climb back towards home, I found myself thinking about how many times my family had made a similar journey. My grandparents in their old Jayco. Mum and Dad with their caravan. Now us, with our own family in tow.
The caravans and technology may have changed. But the reason for travelling remains remarkably familiar. It's about time together. It's about slowing down. And it's about creating the sort of memories that one day your own children might return to relive with families of their own.
BULLI – BUILT ON COAL
Long before Bulli became known for ocean pools and beachside cafés, it was built on coal. The Northern Illawarra was one of Australia's most important coal-producing regions throughout the late 1800s and early 1900s. Coal from local mines was transported to ships via the now-famous Bulli Jetty at Sandon Point, helping shape the growth of the entire Illawarra region. The area's mining heritage was so significant that Bulli became known as part of the "Black Diamond" district, a nickname still referenced today. While most visitors now come for the beaches, reminders of the region's industrial past can still be found throughout Bulli and Sandon Point.
WHERE TO STAY
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Bulli Beach Tourist Park
Our pick for families. Direct beach access, walking distance to cafés, Bulli Ocean Pool and playgrounds. We stayed on one of the large ensuite sites and highly recommend the upgrade if your budget allows. The extra space and convenience are worth every dollar.
Coledale Camping Reserve
One of the most spectacular beachfront camping locations on the NSW coast. Wake up to ocean views and fall asleep to the sound of waves. Facilities are more basic than Bulli, but the location is hard to beat.
Corrimal Beach Tourist Park
A long-time family favourite and a great option for those wanting easy access to Wollongong while still enjoying a relaxed beachside holiday. Close to shops, bike paths and the famous Towradgi Bowling Club meat raffles.
NORTHERN ILLAWARRA MUST-DO LIST
Bulli Ocean Pool
Arguably the most iconic ocean pool on the South Coast. Get there early and bring your swimmers.
Sandon Point Boat Sheds
One of the most photographed locations in the Illawarra and a fantastic sunrise or sunset spot.
Resin Brewing Co
Ride the bike paths, grab a local beer and settle in for live music with the family.
Bulli Heritage Hotel
Recently revamped and packed with character. Great food, live music and a brilliant family-friendly atmosphere.
Thirroul Village
Independent shops, cafés, a fantastic bookstore and one of the best bottle shops you'll find anywhere on the coast.
Sea Cliff Bridge
Don't just drive across it. Park the car and walk the bridge to appreciate the spectacular coastal views.
Earth Walker & Co
Quirky, unique and worth seeking out for breakfast, lunch or coffee at Coledale.
Scarborough Hotel
One of the best pub views in Australia and a perfect spot for a long lunch overlooking the Pacific.
FIVE REASONS TO LOVE BULLI
You can leave the car parked.
One of Bulli's greatest strengths is how walkable it is. Beaches, cafés, playgrounds, bike paths and ocean pools are all within easy reach.
The ocean pool is every bit as good as Instagram says it is.
Bulli Ocean Pool isn't just photogenic. It's genuinely one of the most spectacular ocean swimming spots on the NSW coast.
It sits in the sweet spot.
Close enough to Wollongong for supplies, restaurants and entertainment, yet relaxed enough to still feel like a genuine beach holiday destination.
The bike paths are brilliant.
Families can safely explore huge sections of the coastline by bike, connecting beaches, cafés and attractions without needing to load up the car.
It feels like a holiday.
This might sound obvious, but some destinations spend so much time trying to impress visitors that they lose their charm. Bulli still feels like a place where people come to slow down, swim, ride bikes and enjoy the simple things.
MAP POINTS
Map Points / Highlights:
Bulli Beach Tourist Park
Sandon Point and Boat Sheds
Sea Cliff Bridge
Coledale Camping Reserve
Corrimal Beach Tourist Park
Towradgi Bowling Club
Sublime Point Lookout
Wollongong Harbour and Lighthouse
Heading to the NSW coast this summer? Don’t hit the road without Hema Maps in your glovebox! Packed with detailed navigation, field-checked tracks, and key points of interest—from hidden beaches and coastal lookouts to top camping spots and fuel stops—our maps make exploring stress-free. Whether you're cruising the Mid North Coast or planning a lap around the country, explore our full range of regional, state, and nationwide Australian maps today. Shop now and start planning your next great escape!
