The Savannah Way
Words by Julie Johnson, pics by Richard Johnson
The Savannah Way is a legendary 3700km journey connecting Australia’s east and west coasts, from Cairns to Broome. With our travel time limited to the two-week Easter school holidays, we focused on an achievable 1000km return loop from Cairns to Cobbold Gorge, taking in Forsayth, the Agate Creek Gemfields, Copperfield Gorge and the Undara Lava Tubes. This trip packs a big punch of outback adventures, making memories to last a lifetime. We did it over eight days, but you could easily spend more time out here.
The first leg of the journey takes you from coastal Cairns, across the rolling green hills of the Atherton Tablelands and out into the vast plains of the savannah country. The 417km drive from Cairns to Forsayth is mostly sealed, with some single lane sections between Mount Surprise and Georgetown, and a short stretch of graded road between Georgetown and Forsayth. If you wanted to break the drive, you could spend a night at Innot Hot Springs or Talaroo Hot Springs along the way — both have warm pools of thermal waters for your enjoyment. We pushed on and pulled into a powered site at Goldfields Hotel and Finnigan’s Rest in Forsayth for our first stop of the trip.
Forsayth and the road to Cobbold
Forsayth is a tiny township of around 100 residents. The drawcard for our stay was the nearby Charleston Dam. It’s only 4.5km from Forsayth and the perfect place for an early morning or late afternoon stand-up paddleboarding. Top tip, it’s also an excellent place to enjoy a golden savannah sunset. Other town attractions include tree carvings at Caschafor Park, the heritage-listed Old Forsayth Lockup, a historical display of mining implements and information on the Etheridge Goldfields and an agate display at the local pub. We stayed at Finnigan’s Rest which has a range of powered sites for $42 per night. There are established trees providing shade and it has all the usual amenities and laundry facilities for a comfortable stay. Please note, Forsayth is the closest place to refuel before Cobbold Gorge, so take advantage of that.
The next day we continued our journey to Cobbold Village and so began the offroad adventures. The road between Forsayth and Cobbold is graded, formed gravel with some corrugations. As we visited early in the year, there were still some seasonal creek crossings which were all easy to navigate. The distance between Forsayth and Cobbold is around 46km, but you should allow an hour for travel, taking it slow and keeping an eye out for cattle. Cobbold Village is the hub for those wanting to see Cobbold Gorge. It has a range of powered sites from $50 per night, including drive through sites and ensuite sites ($70 per night). It also has unpowered sites and accommodation options, catering to a range of travellers. A highlight of Cobbold Village is the infinity pool with swim-up bar and licensed bar and bistro. There are several free activities you can do while staying at the village, including kayaking on the dam, bushwalks and, our favourite, a 5km drive out to the Quartz Blow Lookout at sunrise or sunset. Climb the quartz and soak in those views.
Access to Cobbold Gorge is on guided tour only, with transfers provided to and from Cobbold Village.
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Exploring the spectacular Cobbold Gorge
Cobbold Gorge is one of those places you need to add to your bucket list. Hidden among the sandstone escarpments in Queensland’s north-western outback, this is Australia’s youngest gorge and a place of remarkable beauty. Dramatic walls, shaped by time and nature, rise 19m above the water. The gorge width fluctuates in places, sometimes narrowing to just 2m wide. There’s a stillness here, a sense of peace and timelessness. It’s a place you feel lucky to explore and to do so, there are three tours to choose from.
The three-hour Gorge Tour includes a Savannah Guide walk along the escarpment, where you’ll learn more of the history, flora and fauna. A wander over the glass bridge, providing views straight down and along the gorge, as well as a boat ride through the gorge itself.
The one and a half-hour SUP tour provides a different perspective. Held in the early morning or late afternoon, you’ll enjoy the shifting light and colour on the gorge walls as you paddle silently through the still waters.
For the ultimate thrill there are scenic helicopter rides, which provide a bird’s eye view of this unique landscape. We did the 15 minute Sandstone Discovery flight and were amazed at the size and scale of the Hampstead Sandstone. From the air you can see why this gorge was undiscovered for so many years and can’t help but wonder what else may lie hidden out in Australia’s vast outback. If you want more air-time, there’s also a 30-minute flight, a 60-minute Sunset Heli Picnic and a half-day Heli Fishing Adventure available.
Fossicking at Agate Creek
Fossicking is not something our family would usually opt into, but with the Agate Creek Gemfields just 37km down the road from Cobbold Village, we thought we’d check it out. Agate Creek is world renowned for coloured agates and thunder eggs. The area is inaccessible in the summer months, due to localised flooding and river crossings, but is generally open around Easter — but always check conditions before you travel. Access is via a graded road of variable conditions, with some big corrugations, washouts and river crossings. We wouldn’t tow our offroad caravan down there but lots of people do, staying at Agate Creek Camping Ground. We visited in April and found lots of lovely agates in the river walls and beds. You should allow around 50 minutes each way to travel from Cobbold Village to Agate Creek. Heading out early in the morning is best and helps avoid the heat of the day. Make sure you take lots of drinking water with you. Please note, you do need a fossicking licence which can be purchased through the Queensland Government website.
The next day we packed up and continued our Savannah Way adventure, leaving Cobbold behind and travelling over to Einasleigh via Forsayth. This is cattle country, so we shouldn’t have been surprised to encounter a herd being moved across the road. It was a stately procession, capably managed by graziers on horseback and quad bikes, with some trusty muster dogs keeping everyone in line.
A quick stop in Einasleigh
Einasleigh is home to Copperfield Gorge, a striking contrast to Cobbold Gorge with its wide opening and dark basalt walls. Formed by the Copperfield River, which still flows through it today, the gorge and township were flooded in January 2026, though there was little sign of that when we visited in April. Access to Copperfield Gorge is free, with the Savannahlander’s timber railway bridge and iconic Einasleigh Hotel providing a perfect photo backdrop.
After a quick stop, we continued on to the Undara Lava Tubes, a 123km drive via the Gregory and Gulf Developmental Roads. You should allow two hours to complete this trip, as the Gregory Developmental Road is graded dirt with creek crossings and cattle.
Touring the Undara Lava Tubes
The Undara Lava Tubes are another geological marvel on the Savannah Way. We were astounded at their size and scale, as well as the amazing patterns and textures on the tube walls themselves. Walking down into the tubes, the first thing you notice is the coolness and stillness. It’s hard to imagine this was once an active lava flow that spread across the plains. Access to the Undara Lava Tubes is via guided tour only.
On the three-hour tour you explore several of the lava tube systems and surrounding landscape. Each location is a little different and all of them are quite remarkable. Highlights for us included seeing some mature bottle trees and water in the lava tubes themselves — the clear blue water was a startling contrast to the surrounding walls. The water is not present all year but is usually there at the start of the dry season.
The Undara Lava Tubes are in the Undara Volcanic National Park. You can stay at Discovery Resorts – Undara, which offers powered sites from $46 per night. It also has unpowered sites and a range of accommodation options. Highlights of the resort include a swimming pool, a bar and bistro, and walking tracks and trails. If you are travelling with your dog, you can stay at the nearby Pinnarendi Station Stay, 40km down the road. The station offers pet-sitting services, with advance notice required. It also has powered sites from $38 per night, as well as unpowered sites.
Last adventure at Kalkani Crater
Before we left the Savannah Way behind, we had time for one last adventure at the Kalkani Crater. This crater is part of the Undara Volcanic National Park and is easily accessible by road. The Kalkani Crater Rim Walk is a 2.5km self-guided circuit that starts at the car park, climbs and follows the crater rim, then returns. It’s an easy walk with a maximum elevation of 50m. Along the way, you can enjoy views over the plains and keep an eye out for local flora and fauna. Highlights for us included spotting a whiptail wallaby (also known as a pretty-faced wallaby) hiding among the grasses and a spectacular cluster of green jewel bugs. For your comfort, we suggest doing this walk early in the morning or late in the afternoon, as there is limited shade.
With the walk completed, it was time to pack up and head back to Cairns, which is a 255km drive from Kalkani Crater along sealed roads.
To wrap it all up, we rate this section of the eastern Savannah Way a 10/10 for natural attractions and unforgettable locations.
For a journey as varied as the Savannah Way, a good map is only part of the planning process. Hema’s atlases and guides are packed with practical information to help you make the most of your time on the road, from finding campsites and points of interest to discovering the best places to stop, explore and experience along the way. Hema’s Top End and Gulf coverage is particularly useful for travellers tackling the northern sections of the Savannah Way, providing detailed mapping and destination information for one of Australia’s most remote and rewarding touring regions. Whether you're planning your trip from home or looking for inspiration while you're on the road, Hema Atlases and Guides are made for Australian adventure travel.
Travel Planner
8-day eastern Savannah Way itinerary
Destination highlights: Cobbold Gorge, Agate Creek Gemfields, Copperfield Gorge, Undara Lava Tubes and Kalkani Crater.
Day 1: Cairns to Forsayth (417km / 5hr)
Day 2: Forsayth and Charleston Dam (5km)
Day 3: Forsayth to Cobbold Village (46km / 50min)
Day 4: Cobbold Village and Cobbold Gorge Tours
Day 5: Fossicking at Agate Creek Gemfields (37km / 50 minutes, each way from Cobbold Village)
Day 6: Cobbold Village to Einasleigh and Copperfield Gorge (113km / 2hr); Einasleigh to Undara Volcanic National Park (123km / 2hr)
Day 7: Undara Lava Tubes
Day 8: Kalkani Crater and back to Cairns (255km / 3.5hr)
Pets are permitted at Cobbold Village and Copperfield Gorge.
Pets are not permitted in national park areas.
There is a range of caravan parks to stay at.
Take your groceries and supplies with you. Staples and fresh produce available at Forsayth.
Seasonal destination: The best time to visit is April–October.
Find out more
Self-drive Itineraries: savannahway.com.au/itineraries (Lava Tubes, Gems & Gorges)
Where to stay
Finnigan’s Rest
Corner of First and Fourth streets
Forsayth Qld 4871
P: 07 4062 5374
E: finnigansrest@gmail.com
W: visitforsayth.com.au/finnigansrest
Cobbold Village
Cobb Road, via North Head Road
Forsayth Qld 4871
P: 07 4062 5470
E: enquiries@cobboldgorge.com.au
W: cobboldgorge.com.au/stay
Agate Creek Camping Ground
Agate Creek Road
Forsayth Qld 4871
P: 07 4062 5355
E: agatecreek2@gmail.com
Discovery Resorts – Undara
Undara Road, via Gulf Developmental Road
Mount Surprise, Qld 4871
P: 07 4097 1900 / 1800 990 992
W: discoveryholidayparks.com.au/resorts/undara
Pinnarendi Station Stay and Cafe
22971 Kennedy Highway
Forty Mile Qld 4872
P: 0401 627 315
W: thebrickoven.com.au
What to do
Charleston Dam: visitforsayth.com.au/charleston-dam
Cobbold Gorge: cobboldgorge.com.au/tours
Fossicking at Agate Creek Gemfields: qld.gov.au/recreation/activities/areas-facilities/fossicking/fossicking-areas-in-queensland/north-qld/agate-creek
Copperfield Gorge: unearthetheridge.com.au/Attractions/Gorges
Undara Lava Tube Tours: undaralavatubetours.com.au































