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Outback sculpture trails: part one
Words Robert Crack Pics Robert Crack and Supplied
Could there be a better canvas on which to view works of art than the Australian outback landscape, with its red dirt, glinting salt lakes, bushland, boundless big skies and ever-changing light that never sits still? Owing to the enormous distances between some of these outback sculpture trails, we reckon that such distances merit bringing you this article in two parts. Read on for part one.
Isolation itself can be an impetus for monumental art. Not only for those who create the art in isolated locales, but also for those who subsequently encounter it, in places silent enough to let each artwork speak to them.
South Australia
Along the Oodnadatta Track, relics such as the quirky Mutonia Sculpture Park reveal the creative spirit thriving in the isolation of Australia’s outback. About 30km west of Marree, the park features large, whimsical sculptures rising from the desert, including the iconic Plane Henge — two silver aircraft standing upright. Visitors can enter through a ‘gate’ and can explore other scattered, surreal installations created by erstwhile mechanic Robin Cooke, such as Dream Catcher, Time Tree and Big Dog. It’s bizarre, remote and unforgettable — a true must-stop on the Oodnadatta Track.
Plane Henge (Credit: Robert Crack)
If you’re driving the Oodnadatta Track for the first time, I defy you to drive straight past the dystopian sculptures without stopping and taking photos. Go on. I dare you. See if you can fight off the enchantment and entrancement. I couldn’t fight off either of them on my first trip, nor the second.
Northern Territory
Aileron — located north of Alice Springs in Anmatjere Country — is more than just a rest stop, it’s home to the impressive Anmatjere Man sculpture by Mark Egan. Visible from the highway and accompanied by Anmatjere Woman and Child, this giant Aboriginal warrior sculpture watches over the region alongside Aileron’s own sign that’s somewhat redolent of the one in Hollywood, albeit whose letters are nowhere near as tall. The Aileron Roadhouse offers meals, fuel, accommodation options and displays original Albert Namatjira watercolours, celebrating local Indigenous art.
Anmatjere Woman and Child (Credit: Tourism NT and Kate Flowers)
Is Anmatjere Man on a sculpture trail per se? No, but we figured that at 17m tall and weighing eight tonnes, this strikingly impressive sculpture approximately 60km north of the Tropic of Capricorn marker on the Stuart Highway, deserves his place in our article about outback sculpture trails. So does his family, Anmatjere Woman and Child.
Queensland
In December 2020 I departed Cloncurry, Qld — where I had been living and working — and set out on the 4000km journey to Warrnambool, Victoria (via Brisbane to catch up with family in between State border closures), to take up a new job.
Not too far out from Winton I espied what I was 98% sure was a Grey Falcon (Falco hypoleucos), Australia’s rarest falcon. But doing 100km/h (my Prado, that is, not the Falcon; the Grey Falcon can attain speeds significantly faster than my car can) meant that by the time I pulled over and grabbed my Canon PowerShot camera, the bird was nowhere to be seen. Disheartened but not discouraged, I decided that after overnighting in Longreach and again paying homage to the Qantas 747-200 at Qantas Founders Museum, I would take some backroads to my next overnight stop, Emerald.
My ‘return homage’ to the ‘Queen of the Skies’ was important to me; only five months earlier, flight QF7474 (VH-OEJ Wunala) had undertaken the final ever flight by a Qantas 747, from Sydney to Los Angeles and then onto its final resting place, the Mojave Desert. Chances were, if I didn’t set eyes again on the Qantas jumbo jet at Longreach, I would never see another Qantas 747 again.
When I departed Longreach, I knew that I’d need to get to Alpha before 2pm, since I was determined to photograph the Spirit of the Outback train before its scheduled 2.30pm departure from Alpha on its way from Brisbane to Longreach. That meant that I wouldn’t have an inordinate amount of time to look for a Grey Falcon, so I decided on taking a backroads detour along the Ilfracombe-Aramac Road then rejoin the Landsborough Highway at Barcaldine.
I decided to head northeast out of Aramac for a bit. I lucked out on Grey Falcon; however, I did see a couple of Plains Turkeys (Australian Bustards) and a pair of Jabirus.
Only they weren’t alive. They were made of scrap metal.
And they weren’t Jabirus; in fact, they were Black-necked Storks (Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus). ‘Jabiru’ comes from the Tupi–Guaraní language of South America, which is also where the Jabiru (Jabiru mycteria) is found. There aren’t any Jabirus in Australia; whilst it comes from the same family as the Black-necked Stork, it is a completely different genus and species entirely. Misnomer aside, the Black-necked Stork sculptures on the Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail were delightful.
Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
As too, were the other sculptures I saw — Emu and Chicks, Echidna, Rainbow Serpent, Jonathan Thurston, Harry Readford, Ram and Pushbike with Goanna and Kangaroos.
Unfortunately, I did not get to see any other sculptures on the Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail as I had to turn around and head back to Aramac in order to hit Barcaldine (where I refuelled at the Barcaldine Homestead Caravan Park), take a rest break at the Tree of Knowledgeand kick on to Alpha in time for my ‘appointment with a train’.
I have since learnt more about the eclectic Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail, whose 40 or so sculptures by local artist Milynda Rogers (aka Cr Milynda Rogers, Deputy Mayor of Barcaldine Regional Council) are utterly remarkable. Milynda’s creativity, imagination and phenomenal talent defy description.
Highlights include a lifelike eagle feeding its chicks, two red kangaroo boomers getting into some biffo and the unforgettable Returned Soldier on horseback sculpture, perched above a bluff.
Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
For a truly offbeat outback experience — one filled with storytelling, rust and surprise — this self-drive gallery promises to deliver in spades. Be sure to call into the Aramac Visitor Information Centre for a map.
For my part, I can’t wait to ‘hit the track back to Aramac’ and see the other 30+ eye-catching works of art of the Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail, where scrap metal, storytelling and sweeping outback plains collide on Queensland’s quirkiest drive.
Tucked in Central West Queensland not far away from Aramac (not far by Outback Queensland standards, at any rate!), the town of Blackall surprises visitors with more than just huge pastoral stations and wide-open skies — it’s a living gallery, brimming with creativity, character and cultural depth.
Best known as the hometown of legendary blade shearer Jackie Howe, whose 1892 shearing record of 321 sheep in under eight hours remains unmatched, Blackall is also carving out a niche as the home of the Blackall Sculpture Trail. The trail offers a brilliant self-guided journey past nine striking outdoor artworks, each telling a story of local history, resilience and rural life. Today, the life-size bronze statue Jackie Howe pays tribute to his achievement and stands as a proud gateway to the trail, along which you can explore artworks made from recycled bore casing, railway dog spikes and even bronze — each piece inspired by the flora, fauna, frontier life and folklore of the area.
Highlights include Lifespan (by Fredrick White) which is a monument to endurance and resilience in the outback (built from bore casings), the playful tumbleweed sculpture Roly Poly and The Eagle and the Nest (both by Richard Moffatt). The latter stands like a silent sentinel over the Barcoo River whilst the former is located adjacent to the Landsborough Highway out near Blackall Airport and makes for a cracking sunset photo.
Roly Poly on the Blackall Sculpture Trail (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
After walking or cycling the Blackall Sculpture Trail, relax at the Blackall Aquatic Centre where you can soak in the natural artesian waters that flow from the Great Artesian Basin, tapped here in 1885 — the first outback bore of its kind in Queensland. The spa and 50m pool are open year round and heated in winter for year-round comfort.
Don’t miss Blackall’s Memorial Park, where two bronze figures stand quietly, yet powerfully, among the trees — reminders of a town’s proud connection to military service. They are Towner’s Call (by William Eicholtz) commemorating Major Edgar Towner VC MC, and Walking with Greta (by Cam Crossley), a tribute to his sister, Sister Greta Towner. Both served in the First World War. Edgar remains the highest awarded Queensland-born soldier in history, having been awarded the Victoria Cross and Military Cross.
Notable mention
If you’re likely to be in Roma between June and September each year, be sure to experience Sculptures Out Back — an outdoor art trail along Bungil Creek. Featuring unique works by Australian artists, this free exhibition celebrates local culture and creativity — all set between the Big Rig and Explorers Inn. A must-see stop in Outback Queensland!
Return for part two
We’re not finished yet with outback sculpture trails! Come back soon for part two.
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Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail, Qld
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