The Kimberley — Explore Australia’s wild frontier
Words Robert Crack Pics Supplied
A vast, rugged wedge of Western Australia that still feels like frontier country — where red dirt meets glassy turquoise seas, gorges slice through ancient, rugged ranges and your 4WD is your lifeline — the Kimberley is like nowhere else in the world.
The Gibb River Road is a long and often dusty road, full of adventure.
Largest. Oldest. Largest. Oldest.
The fringing reefs of the Kimberley coast hold a larger diversity of coral species than the Great Barrier Reef. This same coast is the nursery for the largest humpback whale population globally, and it provides a haven for six of the world’s seven marine turtle species.
The Kimberley is home to the oldest-known rock art in Australia, being a painting of a kangaroo in Balanggarra Country in the north-east Kimberley, that is more than 17,300 years old.
It also comprises a very large component of Australia’s northern tropical savannah, which is considered to be the largest intact tropical savannah in the world.
This vast region is also home to some of the oldest rocks on Earth, boasting a geological record spanning the last 1900 million years of the planet’s history.
One might expect that a region of so many superlatives might be overwhelming.
But as long as you’re well prepared, it needn’t be.
Essential Kimberley gear
Always carry extra food, extra drinking water, fuel and spares, and expect the unexpected. Check Main Roads WA road reports before rolling out onto the Gibb River Road. Ensure that your must-haves include all-terrain tyres, dual spare wheels, long-range fuel tank or jerry cans, snorkel, air compressor, first-aid kit, tyre-repair kit and recovery gear.
Take a satellite phone or HF radio, plus a personal locator beacon (PLB) and, of course, your Hema Maps Kimberley Atlas & Guide.
Pay thorough attention to your preparation, and the Kimberley won’t overwhelm you. Ignore the must-haves, and it almost certainly will.
Spectacular cliffs line much of the Kimberley coast
Best time to explore
To experience usually-dry, sunny weather, blue skies and mild nights, the best time to go to the Kimberley is April to October. Peak tourist traffic occurs in June–July. For quieter tracks, we recommend aiming for May or September.
If you’re into dramatic storms or birdwatching, the build-up (October to December) should be your choice, however, be warned that from October to April, roads can close for weeks at a time. Rivers rise fast and detours can become impassable, making any further progress impossible. Travel only if you’re fully self-sufficient, as you may be trapped at a river crossing for days.
The Kimberley isn’t for the unprepared. Roads will test your suspension. Airborne bulldust will test your vision. Bulldust holes will test your tyres and mud flaps. The wet will test your patience. The distances will test your planning.
But — the rewards? Endless.
Never-ending views from Brancos Lookout
Getting around the Kimberley
Larger than Germany, almost twice the size of Victoria and thrice the size of England, one might expect that an area of 424,517 square kilometres would be crisscrossed with roads.
It's not.
The road network here is thin. Two main arteries shape any trip; in fact, you can count the through-routes on two fingers:
Great Northern Highway — sealed, practical and skirting the hinterland while linking six small towns.
Gibb River Road — a 660km mix of gravel and corrugations cutting across the central plateau.
Loop these two roads together and you’ve got yourself a circuit, with side trips leading to waterfalls, gorges, cattle stations, Aboriginal rock art and some of the best bush camps you’ll ever roll into.
So, what does exploring the Kimberley actually look like? Let’s dive in.
The iconic Pentecost River crossing and the Cockburn Ranges
Iconic Kimberley 4WD tracks
Tanami Road
More than just a shortcut from Alice Springs, NT, to Halls Creek, WA, this 1035km route is an outback challenge in its own right. Severe corrugations mean strong tyres and suspension are non-negotiable.
Gibb River Road
One of Australia’s classic 4WD adventures. Along its 660km you can expect corrugations, rocky washouts and sharp stones that shred tyres for fun. But in return, you’ll get gorges such as Bandiln͟gan (Windjana Gorge), Dalmanyi (Bell Gorge) and Manning Gorge (located on Mount Barnett Station, access is via the Mt Barnett Roadhouse), river crossings such as Pentecost and Barnett, and station stays at Home Valley, El Questro and Mount Elizabeth. Two weeks is a good window if you want to do the Gibb justice. It’s one of the world’s last great wilderness drives.
Old Halls Creek Road
Short, rocky and around 13km, Old Halls Creek Road threads through dense boab woodlands with a few shallow and rocky creek crossings. The track takes you past Mugs Lagoon and Croc Hole, so be croc safe.
Mitchell Plateau Track
Officially known as Port Warrender Road, this 85km track is a mixed bag of narrow winding sections, rough stretches with corrugations, washouts and creek crossings. It’s not especially difficult but you’ll need to take it slow. This is the only road access to Mitchell Falls — unless you’re in a helicopter — and it leads through the remote Mitchell River National Park. The drive ends at the plateau itself (accessible only in the dry season from May to October), where a basic campground sets you up for the 3km hike to the falls. Mitchell Falls is a four-tiered, 80m-high cascading stunner, and with the option of a scenic helicopter ride back, you can hike in and fly out to make it an unforgettable visit.
Wolfe Creek Crater Drive
Branching off the Tanami Road, this roughly 23km corrugated track leads to one of the world’s largest meteorite craters. Standing on its rim is an awe-inspiring experience that leaves many travellers hushed — though be prepared for a steep rocky climb to the top (climbing down into the crater is prohibited). Measuring 880m across and 60m deep, Wolfe Creek Crater is the second-largest meteorite crater on Earth. It was only discovered by Europeans in 1947 during an aerial survey but has been known to Aboriginal people for millennia and holds deep cultural significance for the Jaru people, the area’s Traditional Owners. Keep an eye out for brown ringtail dragons and Major Mitchell’s cockatoos while exploring the Wolfe Creek Crater National Park.
Cape Leveque Road
Once one of the Kimberley’s most iconic 4WD tracks, the 220km Cape Leveque Road from Broome was fully sealed during COVID, making it more accessible to Aussies eager to experience the beauty of the Dampier Peninsula. While the main road is now sealed, several high-clearance, 4WD-only side tracks still lead to incredible spots where you can soak up the peninsula’s pristine environment and remote bush camps. It’s an ideal route for anyone who loves rugged cliffs, turquoise seas, fishing, rich cultural experiences and sunsets that stop you in your tracks.
Spring Creek Track
This 53km track is the sole vehicle entry into Purnululu National Park and its famous beehive domes. The track is unsealed, narrow, rocky and laced with bulldust, washouts, creek crossings, blind crests and steep pinches. Caravans are banned, and for good reason. Allow around 2–3 hours for the drive and enjoying lookouts along the way.
Bungle Bungle Range, Purnululu National Park
Cable Beach Drive
Iconic and arguably Australia’s best-known beach drive. After soaking up the beauty of Broome, hit the 22km drive north along white sand beach, with turquoise water and brilliant sunsets over the Indian Ocean. Remember to obey the speed limit and be prepared for soft sand driving.
Saddleback Ridge Track
Short, steep, scenic; this lookout track in El Questro Station is better suited to confident drivers. While only 7km long the station guide says to allow for a 40-minute return trip due to the steep, rocky track with hairpin bends (allow even more time if it’s busy). But the reward for making the effort? Spectacular late-afternoon photos over the Kimberley ranges.
Karunjie Track
This 80km 4WD-only track skirts the Cockburn Range and makes for a full day’s outing past Diggers Rest Station, where camping is available. It’s an old stock route and not maintained, so be prepared for some rough going and creek crossings that will trick you into thinking they’re dry.
Explosion Gorge Track (El Questro)
Located on El Questro Station, this 18km track takes you to Explosion Gorge, framed by red cliffs on the Chamberlain River. Remote, rugged and worth the effort. High-clearance 4WDs are essential and bash plates are recommended.
Parry Creek Road
This unsealed road offers a different route between Wyndham and Kununurra and will also take you via Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve. The track is 4WD only, rough in sections and prone to washouts. The reserve is great for birdwatching (keep your eye out for the famed Gouldian Finch, a vibrant Aussie native) and there’s accommodation and camping at Parry Creek Farm.
Female Gouldian Finch (Erythrura gouldiae) near Parry Lagoons. (Credit: Robert Crack)
Fishing in the Kimberley
This coast is wild, remote and lightly fished — which means aggressive, acrobatic (and BIG!) barra, threadfin salmon, mud crabs and cherabin (freshwater prawns) still thrive.
Annual recreational fishing licences are r equired in Western Australia and a Recreational Fishing from Boat Licence (RFBL) is also required to undertake any fishing activity with the use of a powered boat anywhere in the State.
Access rules and permits
If you’re exploring the Kimberley, you’ll need a WA Parks Pass, available here. This grants you access to Bandiln͟gan (Windjana Gorge) National Park, Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) National Park and Wunaamin Miliwundi Ranges Conservation Park.
Park entry and camping fees apply in Purnululu National Park.
Aboriginal land permits are required to access Kalumburu Road, Mitchell Plateau and Dampier Peninsula side tracks.
A Uunguu Visitor Pass is required for travelling into Wunambal Gaambera Country, including Mitchell Falls. Mitchell River National Park is jointly managed by WA Parks and Wildlife and the Wunambal Gaambera people. A five-day pass can be obtained online, at Kimberley visitor centres or at Drysdale River Station.
Where to get fuel
Broome
Derby
Doon Doon Roadhouse
Drysdale River Station
El Questro Wilderness Park
Fitzroy Crossing
Halls Creek
Imintji Community Store (diesel only)
Kununurra
Mt Barnett Roadhouse
Mt Elizabeth Station (diesel only)
Warmun Roadhouse
Willare Bridge Roadhouse
Wyndham
Some fuel stations operate seasonally and may have restricted hours, so always check ahead and carry extra fuel.
Best Kimberley campsites
Dulundi (Silent Grove) Campground near Dalmanyi (Bell Gorge)
Kurrajong Campground, Purnululu National Park
Manning Gorge Campground (Mt Barnett Station) (currently closed due to bushfire)
Munurru (King Edward River) Campground, Ngauwudu (Mitchell Plateau)
Walardi Campground, Purnululu National Park
Maps
Final tips for your trip
There aren’t many places left in Australia that still feel like uncharted territory. The Kimberley is one of them.
The Kimberley will challenge your driving, test your patience and demand careful planning. But it’ll also deliver waterfalls, red ranges and remote coastlines that stay with you forever.
Grab a Hema Map, plot your course and take the leap into Australia’s final frontier.
Respect country, check access, stay on tracks and pack out what you pack in.
Your Kimberley adventure is not just possible — it’s unforgettable.
The Kimberley is waiting.
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