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Drive the epic Skytrek in the Flinders Ranges, SA
Words Julija Zivanovic and Ron and Viv Moon Pics Julija Zivanovic and Matt Williams
The 79km-long Skytrek track — which starts at the privately owned Willow Springs Station — is a must-do 4WD trip that takes you through hidden parts of the breathtaking Flinders Ranges.
The Hema Maps convoy driving the incredible Skytrek in August 2024 (Credit Matt Williams)
The Flinders Ranges are the largest mountain ranges in South Australia. They start about 200 kilometres north of Adelaide, stretching from Port Pirie to Lake Callabonna for approximately 430km.
In Australia’s recent history, European explorers, farmers and miners came to the region to exploit the natural rolling pasturelands, the open plains and mineral-rich veins of promising ore, leaving behind a legacy you can touch and feel today.
We’ve driven Willow Springs Station’s Skytrek track in the Flinders Ranges many times in Hema’s history, but only a few short months ago did we tackle it as a massive convoy during our 40th anniversary expedition.
This a spectacular self-guided track and the alien-like landscape which surrounds it is something I’ve not seen in Australia before. The vast open landscape in every direction is very humbling … and I would dare say many Aussies haven’t been to this unique part of our country.
Before we get into some tips for tackling Skytrek Willow Springs Station, here’s some essential information.
The details
Please be advised that a $70 per vehicle cost is incurred for driving this track as it is on private property, paid to the reception desk at Willow Springs.
Grading: Medium — mainly high range 4WD but low range required. Some 4WD experience or training required.
Time: 7 hours
Distance: 79km
Longest distance without fuel: 200km (from Hawker return)
Fuel and supplies: Can be purchased from Hawker and Blinman
Best time of year: April to November
Warnings: Be sure to obey all the guidelines laid out by Willow Springs.
Facilities: Wilpena, Hawker, Willow Springs
Important contacts: Willow Springs Station — 08 8648 0016
Activities: Includes track notes with 50 sign-posted stops indicating points of interest.
The Skytrek offers plenty of different terrain to traverse (Credit Matt Williams)
The drive
Willow Springs Station’s Skytrek is one of the most well-regarded self-drive 4WD tracks in the Flinders Ranges region. You’ll likely get to sight wild kangaroos, emus, eagles and other local birds while completing this drive, plus plenty of dramatic landscapes rising from the orangey-red dirt.
Over a beautiful winter’s day, the Hema Map Patrol, several Alpha Team members and the rest of the attending Hema Maps team tackled the legendary Skytrek, starting bright and early at 6:30am.
The track initially zigzags southeast from Willow Springs through a river gorge among broad, rolling hills. It then bends away from Buffalo Creek to travel northeast to the old Moxan’s Hut.
Continuing north, the track is easy to follow with points of interest clearly sign-posted along the way. There are 50 well-signed markers on the route which indicate spots of significance, such as ancient Aboriginal etchings, notable flora or fauna, ochre cliffs, waterholes and much more.
You can pick up an information sheet from the office at Willow Springs which has detailed information about each of the 50 stops. You can pick and choose which ones to stop at and inspect.
The alien-like landscape along the Skytrek is a sight to behold
The track is fairly easy going early on, with the main challenges coming in from the occasional rocky sections and washouts. After around 65km, as you near the old Willow Springs Waterhole, there are some steep sections and a few tricky spots that will require plenty of careful low-range navigation.
These efforts are rewarded with a stunning panorama from atop Upalinna Lookout, which takes in the entire Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park and Wilpena Pound to the southwest.
One of the best ways to end the day is atop the main ridge with an expansive view over the stunning South Australian outback. It’s a great place to process the unforgettable experience and just take in the serenity.
Some of the Hema Maps and REDARC teams taking a breather on the Skytrek track (Credit Matt Williams)
Accommodation
Willow Springs Station, located approximately five hours north of Adelaide by car, is a unique and historically significant (more on this below) place to stay that offers true bush hospitality. Originally a 70,000-acre sheep property, the outback stay is so well known that it’s become a destination in its own right.
Considering we had such a large group on the 40th anniversary expedition, we stayed at Willow Spring Station’s ‘Shearer’s Quarters’ which (incredibly) sleeps 34 people — and has a long list of features including an indoor enclosed wood fireplace, satellite television and an ancient well converted to a barbecue (pictured below). Please be advised that to stay at the Shearer’s Quarters requires a minimum of three nights.
The charming old well converted into a barbecue at the Shearer’s Quarters
Willow Springs Station also offers a range of other accommodation options, including the Homestead (sleeps 11 people, two night minimum), the Stockman’s Lodge (sleeps six, two night min.), the Overseer’s Cottage (sleeps four, two night min.), the pet-friendly Jillaroo’s Hut (sleeps four, one night min.), the Governess’ Cabin (sleeps five, one night min.) and the Moxan’s Hut which sleeps five and has a three-night minimum stay.
There is also camping available on the property which offers privacy as well as a sense of isolation and security. There are sites of varying sizes which are accessible to 2WDs, AWDs, 4WDs, tents, camper trailers, caravans and motorhomes. There are also campsites suitable for large groups available on request.
The private, secluded bush camping sites — all situated within 2km of the homestead among beautiful scenery — all come complete with a designated fire ring, barbecue plate, picnic table and long drop toilet.
Hema Maps Chairman Sam Hayward and General Manager of Product Rob Boegheim having a yarn at the back of the Shearer’s Quarters
Sheep country: Willow Springs history
Willow Springs Station and neighbouring Upalinna Station were two of the early pastoral leases in the Flinders Ranges. Upalinna Station was formerly known as Appealinna, having been taken up by Joseph Wills in 1856.
Steve Reynolds — the grandfather of the present owners — and his younger brother Tom came from their family home of Willow Plain near Hawker in 1924 to inspect the Upalinna block which was one of the many subdivisions of the former Wilpena Station.
They spent the next couple of days riding around on horseback, confirming what they had heard from a well ‘lubricated’ shepherd. They then went and approached the Pastoral Board for a lease, which was subsequently granted to them.
Just some of the incredible scenery to see along the Skytrek
The property was purchased by the Reynolds family in 1952 at the height of the wool boom and Steve and his three sons successfully supported a large family business for the ensuing 30 years.
In 1985 Carmel and Brendan (who we had the pleasure of meeting) joined Brendan’s parents in a partnership to obtain Willow Springs and took the first step in diversifying into the tourism industry.
The family ties continue to today, where the pastoral side of the property is operated by Christopher (Carmel and Brendan’s son) and his partner Bridie. Carmel and Brendan’s granddaughter, Michelle, now operates Skytrek Willow Springs Tourism on the property.
Grab a copy today!
If you enjoyed learning about the Skytrek track and would like more information on it and 12 other famous 4WD tracks in the Flinders Ranges region — plus a wealth of information on the region, including the natural environment, history, trip planning and things to see and do — you can purchase a copy of the Hema Flinders Ranges Atlas & Guide on the Hema Maps website or at leading outdoor retailers.
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