Posted on 11 February 2026

The Arnhem Way, Central Arnhem Road: Part one

Words and pics Robert Crack and John Ford

The Central Arnhem Road isn’t just another outback track — it’s a journey through culture, country and character.

And such a journey means that there is so much to experience, so we’re bringing The Arnhem Way (Katherine to Nhulunbuy) to you in two parts.

Part one focuses on the journey itself — permits, road conditions, fuel stops and key stopping points along the Central Arnhem Road — while in part two we’ll explore what awaits once you arrive in East Arnhem Land.

Baṉambarrŋa (Rainbow Cliff) (Credit: John Ford)

A road that sets its own pace

Where the bitumen ends, the real Australia begins.

Once you’ve explored the galleries of the Katherine Territory Art Trail, had a soak in Katherine Hot Springs and marvelled at Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park, it’s time to venture beyond Katherine’s outskirts and find one of the Northern Territory’s most evocative drives — the Central Arnhem Road. Stretching 675km from the Stuart Highway turnoff to Nhulunbuy on the Gove Peninsula, this dirt ‘highway’ leads you through country alive with ancient stories, timeless landscapes and the spirit of East Arnhem Land.

Out here, adventure isn’t optional — it’s part of the road itself.

The Central Arnhem Road (State Route C24) starts about 52km south of Katherine at an intersection with the Stuart Highway and winds its way northeast to the coast. After the first 30km or so which is sealed, the road from there on is unsealed and unpretentious — red clay, loose gravel, corrugations, bulldust and the occasional water crossing. It’s not a quick drive; it’s the kind of road where you should slow down and absorb the vastness.

Between the turnoff and Gove Peninsula to the northeast lies a vast sweep of Arnhem Land — hundreds of kilometres of unspoiled bush, escarpments, savannah, sacred rock, paperbark-lined rivers and coastline that remains largely untouched by modern tourism. Those who take their time will find hidden camps, fishing holes and beaches that feel a world away from anywhere.

To be sure, this is not a drive measured by kilometres alone, but by preparation, patience and respect for Country. And, of course, by the forever memories this place and trip will bestow upon you.

The Central Arnhem Road travels across private Aboriginal land and entry is by permit only. These are issued free through the Northern Land Council (NLC) and must be arranged online well before your departure.

There is no roadside or bush camping permitted whatsoever along the Central Arnhem Road. You are only permitted to camp in designated recreational areas and campgrounds, and you require permits to do so.

Given that you would be travelling by road through Aboriginal land, potentially visiting an Aboriginal community or homeland, being a day visitor and/or camping in designated recreational areas and/or intending to purchase takeaway alcohol, you must have the requisite permit.

Permits aren’t just red tape; they’re your ticket to travel respectfully across some of the most culturally significant country in Australia. Traditional Owners welcome visitors who do the right thing — those who travel prepared, tread lightly and honour this Aboriginal land.

Before you head out, check the NT Road Report for updates on closures and other road conditions.

Here in part one, we’ll look at permits, access, camps, travelling on Aboriginal land, fuel and food.

Permits, access, camps and travelling on Aboriginal land

While sealed sections of the road now extend further than many expect, the majority of the Central Arnhem Road remains unsealed and remote, shaped by wet seasons, graders and time.

This is Yolŋu land. Access is controlled, infrastructure is sparse and travel is deliberately limited — factors that have preserved the region’s sense of isolation and cultural strength.

But the Northern Land Council and Dhimurru permits (Visitor Access Permits and Camping Permits) aren’t the only ones you’ll need. If you are planning on bringing your own alcoholic beverages to Nhulunbuy or Yirrkala, you will need to obtain a Gove Peninsula liquor permit from the Northern Territory Government before heading into Arnhem Land. These permits can be applied for online.

Do you have an Access Permit? (Credit: John Ford)

Katherine to Wugularr (Beswick): Easing into Arnhem Land

After fuelling up and giving your vehicle/s a once-over in Katherine or Mataranka, checking your supplies and tyres as well as confirming your permits, the journey east begins as you peel off the Stuart Highway onto the Central Arnhem Road. The bitumen doesn’t last long — but that’s the point, right?

Early on, sealed road carries you a little past Barunga (home of the Barunga Festival) and through to Wugularr (Beswick), making the latter an ideal first pause.

Wugularr (Beswick) is home to Djilpin Arts, a respected cultural centre showcasing Jawoyn art and storytelling. If open, it’s worth stopping for coffee, a gallery visit or overnight accommodation. Fuel and basic supplies are also available here, making it an astute pause before the remoteness deepens.

Beyond Wugularr (Beswick), the bitumen eventually ends and the Central Arnhem Road becomes what most travellers expect — red dirt, corrugations and long, exposed stretches where tyre pressures and speed management are critical.

When the dirt begins: Corrugations, care and concentration

Once the dirt begins, tyre pressures come down and speeds follow. Corrugations, bulldust pockets and several curves demand respect, but the scenery compensates with sandstone escarpments rising above open plains and long (hopefully) freshly graded sections along which your progress briefly feels effortless.

Roughly 50km in, a low-key (not signposted) pull-off which locals call ‘Jurassic Park’ delivers a jaw-dropping escarpment view. Blink and you’ll miss it.

'Jurassic Park' Lookout (Credit: Robert Crack)

Near the junction with the Mainoru Station Access Road you’ll see the directional sign showing to turn hard left to continue on the C24 (Central Arnhem Road) rather than straight on to Mainoru Station. It’s Mainoru Outstation Store on C24 that you’ll be wanting, not the Mainoru Station Access Road to Mainoru Station or Wongalara.

From this turnoff, it’s 19km to Mainoru Outstation Store and ‘only’ another 478km to Nhulunbuy.

Mainoru Outstation Store: Fuel, food and a well-earned pause

For most travellers, Mainoru Outstation Store is the logical place to break the journey. Located beside the Mainoru River, it offers fuel, shaded grassy campsites, rooms, hot showers and a clear freshwater (and croc-free!) swimming hole. Birdlife is prolific and buffalo are often seen grazing near camp at dusk.

It is open seven days per week during the dry season (April to October) from 8am to 6pm, and five days per week (Thursday through Monday) during the wet season from November to March.

Evening meals must be ordered in advance, but they’re worth planning around. So do it! With camping options limited along the Central Arnhem Road, Mainoru remains a key waypoint for anyone travelling to or from the Gove Peninsula.

Mainoru Station Store camping (Credit: John Ford)

Mainoru to Nhulunbuy: Big distances, little traffic

Leaving Mainoru early in the day is recommended. Around 60km east lies Bulman (Gulin Gulin), the last fuel and supply point (Gulin Gulin Community Store) before Nhulunbuy. That said, Bulman is a closed community, and a Northern Land Council (NLC) permit is required to visit this community. Accordingly, our recommendation is to ensure that you’ve filled up at Mainoru Outstation Store, and to ensure that your jerries are full as well.

From here, the road stretches long and quiet through savannah and scrub, with minimal traffic and regular wildlife sightings.

Conditions generally improve closer to the Gove Peninsula, where mining traffic becomes more common and road maintenance more frequent. A short detour near the end of the road leads to Guwatjurumurru (Giddy River) — a shaded picnic and camping area beside a freshwater stream. Access requires a Dhimurru Aboriginal Corporation permit. This site is not suitable for caravans or camper trailers.

Eventually, the road seals and delivers you into Nhulunbuy, the region’s main service centre and the practical base for exploring East Arnhem Land’s coastal and cultural highlights.