Pre-trip planning tips for the Top End of Australia

Words Julija Zivanovic and Chris Whitelaw Pics Robert Crack, Patrick Kemp and Supplied

To celebrate the upcoming release of our all-new 1st Edition Top End and Gulf Atlas & Guide, we’re providing another sneak peek at the book … just keep reading to learn more.

There are many freshwater swimming opportunities in the Top End (Credit: Patrick Kemp)

We’re thrilled to announce that the 1st Edition Top End and Gulf Atlas & Guide, written by travel writer and photographer Chris Whitelaw, will be released in early April 2025.

In case you are not aware, the Top End and Gulf of Australia is a tropical oasis known for its impressive natural beauty, featuring countless picture-perfect waterholes, gorges and truly incredible native wildlife — some of which is not found anywhere else in the country. It’s filled with must-see places.

Aussies have long enjoyed visiting this warm-temperature area, especially during the southern winter, otherwise known as the dry season (‘the Dry’) in the north. We recommend visiting the Top End during the dry season (April–October), so you can fully enjoy all the nature activities without being rained in.

Hooded Parrot, NT (Credit: Robert Crack)

Now in July last year, we started teasing the release of this book, and we shared with you the highlights/best of the Top End and Gulf region. If you didn’t get a chance to read that article, you can do so here. Otherwise, welcome to the second part in this series where we’ll cover just a few of many pre-trip planning essentials for a Top End adventure.

The information in this article was taken from several subsections of the Planning and Preparation Chapter (pages 46–65) from the unreleased 1st Edition Top End and Gulf Atlas & Guide. It is just a snapshot of the information provided, and we recommend conducting your own further research. Read to the end to discover how you can grab a copy when it’s released in a few weeks!

Do your own research

Umbrawarra Gorge, NT (Credit: Robert Crack)

The ‘6 Ps Principle’ — Proper Preparation Prevents Pretty Poor Performance —is a good rule of thumb to apply to an adventure in the Top End of Australia … which will take you into places that are exotic and exciting but also challenging and remote. Time spent in careful preparation will stand you in good stead and help maximise the enjoyment of this awesome experience.

Pre-trip research will yield lots of practical information and will give you some insight into the region you’re about to explore. Apart from this extensive guidebook and atlas, other useful references can be found at your local library and in 4WD and outdoor sports stores. Visitor Information Centres and national park bodies can also provide brochures, maps and fact sheets, many of which are available online.

We, of course, recommend the Hema Top End and Gulf Map (1:1,650,000), which includes GPS surveyed roads and tracks, fuel stops, self-drive 4WD tracks, camping areas, historic sites, detailed national park inset maps and is on waterproof paper, so you can explore with confidence.

Best time of year

The thundering Jim Jim Falls in Kakadu National Park is one of the highlights of the region (Credit: Tourism NT)

Your travel experience in the Top End can vary greatly depending on when you go. Generally, northern Australia experiences a hot, monsoonal wet season (‘the Wet’) that can last from late-November to mid-April, followed by a long spell of mild, dry weather from around May to the ‘build up’ in October.

During the Wet, floodwaters will greatly restrict where you can travel. While main bitumen highways are generally open, many minor roads are closed and some places near the coastline are subject to tropical cyclones. Once the rain begins, it’s best to avoid muddy, out-of-the-way tracks. With saying that, the wet season can be very dramatic, with thundering waterfalls, masses of birdlife and widespread regreening of the landscape. If you can handle the heat, it’s incredible to see.

In April/May, there’s still plenty of water about and creek crossings will be deep. Ensure you have a well-prepared, high clearance vehicle and your driving abilities are up to the task. Some tracks and camping areas may remain closed until May/June and it’s a good idea to check opening dates on NT transport and national park websites.

As mentioned, most travellers head to the Top End in the Dry, and that’s definitely the most comfortable time of year. The only real downside to travelling in the peak season is the possibility of missing out on a camping site at some of the more popular spots, particularly in national parks and on school holidays. Always book well in advance of your travels.

By September, everything will have dried out a lot, temperatures will be climbing and most of the Top End will be accessible, including 4WD tracks.

Getting there

The Ghan is often described as one of the world's great railway journeys (Credit: Robert Crack)

Darwin is the most northerly of Australia’s capital cities, and yet getting to it is relatively easy. Regular domestic flights reach Darwin International Airport from other state capitals, and airports at Katherine, Tennant Creek and Gove (Nhulunbuy) are served by Airnorth.

Often described as one of the world’s great rail journeys, The Ghan runs weekly between Darwin and Adelaide (almost 3000km) in a scheduled travelling time of about 53 hours, including extended stops at Alice Springs and Katherine, allowing time for passengers to take optional tours.

The Inlander passenger train operates twice weekly on the Great Northern Railway (also known more commonly as the Mount Isa Line) from Townsville to the mining city of Mount Isa, completing the overnight journey of 970km in a leisurely 21 hours. From Mount Isa, travellers wishing to continue their trip to the Top End must do so by road.

Aboriginal land: permits and alcohol restrictions

(Credit: Patrick Kemp)

Across the Top End, almost 70 per cent of land and most of the coastline is owned by Aboriginal people. It is private property held under special ‘inalienable’ freehold title that cannot be bought, sold or fortified. This title is granted under the Aboriginal Land Rights (Northern Territory) Act 1976, a law passed by the Parliament of Australia which applies only to the NT. It recognises the traditional Aboriginal system of land ownership and provides ways for First Nations people to control and use their resources.

Further extensive information on Aboriginal land within the Top End and Gulf is found in the book.

Permits

Access to Aboriginal land is strictly controlled and, in most cases, visitors cannot enter or travel across it without a written permit from the relevant land council. The Northern Land Council (NLC) which has jurisdiction over the Top End administers the permit system in the region.

The system is designed to protect the privacy of Aboriginal communities, preserve Aboriginal culture, safeguard the natural environment and promote visitor safety. Landowners retain the right to close areas from time to time for ceremonial or management purposes. NLC permits are free, and applications can be made online — a minimum of 10 business days should be allowed for processing.

There are different kinds of permits for particular activities or purposes. Visitor permits are issued to people who have been invited to visit friends or family living in an Aboriginal community. Travellers can obtain transit permits to access roads on Aboriginal land during specified dates. Work permits cover general, mining, tourism, research and media activities for nominated locations and time frames, while recreation permits entitle holders to access designated recreation areas.

Alcohol restrictions

Travellers and tourists in the Northern Territory need to be aware of the laws about drinking and buying alcohol. Many Indigenous communities are alcohol protected areas where alcohol is totally banned. You may take unopened alcohol through these ‘dry’ areas, but you cannot drink it, sell it or give it away there.

Some other communities have developed alcohol management plans that aim to restrict the type and quantity of alcohol that may be sold and consumed within the community. A community can also decide to have no restrictions.

There are some designated public places in the Top End — in Darwin, Kakadu, Katherine, Mataranka, Tennant Creek, Nhulunbuy and East Arnhem — where it is illegal to drink alcohol. In some other areas, you must have a liquor permit to drink or buy takeaway alcohol.

Further information about obtaining liquor permit/s from Licensing NT are found in the book.

Drive safely

(Credit: Patrick Kemp)

Driving in the Top End and Gulf Savannah regions can be hazardous and may present some unique challenges to first-time travellers. Here are some tips that will help you get around safely:

• Always take extra care when driving and ensure you drive to your capabilities and the prevailing conditions.
• The speed limit in built-up areas is 60km/h, unless otherwise signposted to a lower limit.
• Outside most built-up area the default speed limit on open roads is 110km/h unless otherwise stated.
• Some sections of the Arnhem, Barkly, Stuart and Victoria Highways have a maximum speed limit of 130km/h.
• The legal blood alcohol level for drivers holding a standard licence is 0.05, but the safest level is zero.
• Seatbelts save lives and it is the responsibility of the driver to ensure everyone in the vehicle is wearing theirs.
• Make sure you have plenty of clear road ahead before attempting to overtake a road train. Some of them can be up to 53.5m long!
• Keep your headlights on during the day and slow down if visibility is reduced by dust or smoke haze.
• Check road access and conditions before going on a journey into remote locations.
• Be aware of possible flash flooding in low-lying areas.
  
  

Further information and tips on driving safely in the Top End and Gulf is found in the book.

Grab your copy today!

The above is an edited extract from the recently produced Hema Top End and Gulf Atlas & Guide, due to be released in early April 2025. This 1st Edition guidebook provides extensive and up-to-date information on the whole Top End and Gulf region, including 5 of the TOP 4WD trips and 22 atlas pages. It also features detailed national park and track inset maps — all field checked by the Hema Map Patrol — visitor information, history and culture, all the best campsites, trip planning tips and much more.

This easy-to-use guidebook takes the difficulty out of planning a road trip to this incredible part of our country. Keep an eye out for the release soon!

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