Across Australia’s heart — driving the Great Central Road from Uluru to Laverton
Words Robert Crack and Grant and Linda Hanan; Photography Linda Hanan
Head to the Red Centre to take an unforgettable journey across Australia’s heartland.
On the way to Laverton
From Uluru’s red rock to Laverton’s goldfields, the Great Central Road (GCR) delivers one of the country’s great desert drives — rich in scenery, history and old-fashioned adventure.
The outback’s great shortcut
Few drives capture the soul of the Australian interior quite like the Great Central Road. Stretching more than 1120km between Uluru in the Northern Territory and Laverton in Western Australia, the GCR threads through desert oaks, red dunes and ancient mountain ranges.
The GCR’s predecessors were a number of rough bush tracks used by Len Beadell’s road crew in the 1950s to support Britain’s atomic testing. It’s now part of the Outback Way — a 2700km transcontinental route linking Winton, Qld, to Laverton, WA.
These days, it’s a mix of sealed and dirt sections — smooth in parts, bone-rattling in others. Weather and recent grading make all the difference, so check road reports before departure.
Be sure to lower your tyre pressures once you hit the dirt — your suspension (and passengers) will thank you.
Uluru–Kata Tjuta National Park — the iconic start line
No matter how many times you’ve seen it in photos, Uluru stops you in your tracks. Standing 348m tall and glowing crimson at sunrise and sunset, it’s the perfect launch point for a westbound journey.
Base yourself at Ayers Rock Campground in Yulara — powered and unpowered sites, a camp kitchen, swimming pool, laundry and communal barbecue facilities all make it an easy stay. Shuttle buses loop the resort precinct, and most tour operators collect guests directly from the campground.
Before setting out, stock up on water, fuel and supplies. Shell Ayers Rock Service Station is only about 100m from the campground entrance, and your campsite be no more than about a 1km walk to Voyages Ayers Rock IGA supermarket. From here on, towns are scarce and prices rise with remoteness.
Uluru to Kaltukatjara (Docker River) — 235km
The first 80km out of Yulara is sealed. Then the bitumen gives way to classic red track. Expect spinifex plains, desert oaks and the majestic Petermann Ranges framing the horizon.
Stop in at Tjunti to see Lasseter’s Cave (Kulpi Tjuntinya), where legendary prospector Harold Lasseter sheltered for 25 days during his ill-fated gold expedition. Then push on to Kaltukatjara (Docker River), an Aboriginal Community with a basic campground and occasional mobile coverage.
Lasseter’s Cave (Kulpi Tjuntinya) at Tjunti
Kaltukatjara to Warakurna — 105km
This section of the GCR, along which the NT/WA Border is crossed, is pure desert magic: mulga scrub, wide valleys and rocky hillsides that shift colour with the light. Look out for the turnoff to Sandy Blight Junction Road, one of Len Beadell’s original routes.
Don’t miss a stop at Giles Weather Station, established in 1956. You can wander through its small museum or, if your timing’s right, catch the morning weather balloon launch.
Across the road, Warakurna Roadhouse makes an ideal overnight stop — fuel, food, powered sites, showers, laundry and even a barbecue area. Outside, the original Gunbarrel Road Construction Party grader sits as a fitting tribute to Beadell’s handiwork.
Gunbarrel Road Construction Party Grader at Giles
Warakurna to Warburton — 233km
Expect corrugations and wildlife through this section — camels, dingoes and the occasional wedge-tailed eagle dining roadside.
Warburton (Mirlirrtjarra) is the largest community on the route and another good ‘R&R’ point (refuel and restock on bread, ice, meat and basic groceries, that is, although it’s a good place for a bit of rest and relaxation too). Warburton Roadhouse also has a tidy campground with grassy powered and unpowered sites, plus amenities and a camp kitchen. And if the planets align and you’re in Warbuton on a Monday to Friday in the morning, be sure to visit the Tjulyuru Regional Arts Gallery.
Warburton Roadhouse campground
Between the two towns, keep an eye out for informal bush camps — there’s no shortage of peaceful spots.
Road grading between Warakurna and Warburton
Keep an eye out for camels
Warburton to Tjukayirla Roadhouse — 247km
Now you’re deep into Great Victoria Desert country. This stretch traces the rock holes once vital to First Nations Australians and early European explorers alike.
A favourite free camp is Camp Paradise, around 156km west of Warburton. It’s big-rig friendly but completely self-sufficient, so bring everything you need.
By contrast, Tjukayirla Roadhouse feels like an oasis — fuel, food, showers and powered sites, plus what might just be the best burger on the GCR.
Tjukayirla’s staff are a goldmine of information on local road conditions and photo opportunities along the route.
Tjukayirla to Laverton — 305km
Rolling dunes give way to colourful breakaways and the odd splash of Sturt’s Desert Pea (Swainsona Formosa). Old gravel pits serve as free camps, while The Pines and Giles Breakaway are two standouts — the latter boasting panoramic desert views and glowing sunsets.
Sturt’s Desert Pea (Swainson Formosa)
The final 50km into Laverton is sealed, marking the end of the red dust and corrugations. Before crossing into town, dispose of fresh fruit and vegetables in the WA quarantine bins 20km east of Laverton.
Quarantine restrictions apply when entering WA from SA or the NT.
Once in town, make time for the Great Beyond Visitor Centre on Augusta Street. It’s home to the Explorers’ Hall of Fame, charting the stories of 19th-century adventurers who once launched from this very place. And the cafe coffee and baked treats are top-notch!
Inside the Great Beyond Visitor Centre in Laverton
When to go and road conditions
Travel between May and September when days are mild and nights crisp. Summer brings extreme heat and potential road closures after rain.
Always check current conditions via the Shire of Laverton, Shire of Ngaanyatjarraku and NT Government websites for road reports before you head off.
Permits and passes
Travelling the Great Central Road means crossing multiple Aboriginal lands. You’ll need:
WA transit permits: Department of Planning, Lands and Heritage
1. Great Central Road Tjukayirla Roadhouse to Laverton
2. Great Central Road WA/NT Border to Tjukayirla Roadhouse
NT permit: Central Land Council
3. Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park to NT/WA border
Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park pass
Apply online at least a week ahead.
Australia’s living heart
The Great Central Road isn’t just a link between Uluru and Laverton — it’s a journey through Australia’s living heart. You’ll cross shifting deserts, trace the footsteps of explorers and finish with the red dust firmly embedded in your tyres and the welts of your boots (and probably your socks, too).
So, take it slow. Make every roadhouse stop part of the adventure. And when you’re planning, pack a good map — Hema’s Great Desert Tracks Atlas & Guide and/or Great Desert Tracks Western Sheet will keep you on track from start to finish.
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