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The ultimate road trip to the Red Centre
Words and Pics Miriam Blaker
The Red Centre of Australia has always been a popular winter escape for southern tourers but, as Miriam Blaker discovered, the road trip to get there is just as exciting.
Leaving Melbourne on a brisk grey morning, we embarked on our 4WD adventure towards Mildura. The journey began with the city’s stark winter chill, but as we ventured further north, the weather warmed, revealing the semi-Mediterranean climate that makes Mildura a popular winter destination. Located on the Victoria/New South Wales border, Mildura is a haven for travellers seeking sunshine and serenity with numerous caravan parks and free campsites along the Murray River.
Our first overnight stop was at the Apex RiverBeach Holiday Park, a picturesque site nestled along the Murray River. As we set up camp, we were greeted by a magnificent sunset, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink — a perfect start to our outback adventure. The park offered ample space and amenities, making it an ideal base for exploring the nearby attractions.
Exploring the ancient Flinders Ranges
From Mildura, we journeyed to Burra in South Australia, a quaint town with a rich history. Just 14km from Burra, we set up camp at Red Banks Conservation Park. Though we arrived under gloomy skies, the park’s stunning landscape and numerous walking trails promised adventure for those willing to explore.
Next on our itinerary was the breathtaking Flinders Ranges, a destination steeped in ancient history and natural beauty. Having previously stayed at Rawnsley Park, we decided to try Edeowie Station this time. Located on the western side of the ranges, Edeowie Station is a 69,000ha working sheep and cattle station offering various accommodations, including historic shearers quarters and secluded bush camping spots. Our three nights here were spent enjoying star-filled skies and cozy campfires, with the peaceful ambiance of the outback as our constant companion.
One of the highlights of our stay was a self-guided 23km 4WD loop drive around the property. With a mud map in hand, we navigated through Bunyeroo Gorge and the station tracks, experiencing the rugged beauty of the Flinders Ranges without encountering another soul. The sense of isolation and tranquillity was unparalleled.
The historic ghost town of Farina
Leaving Edeowie, we headed 170km north to Farina, a ghost town slowly being resurrected from the red dust. Once a thriving settlement, Farina’s history is chronicled through signage around town, detailing its rise and fall alongside the Great Northern Railway. Established in the 1870s, the town once boasted a population of 600, complete with hotels, a church, a school and a bakery.
Walking through the ruins, it was easy to imagine the harsh realities faced by its former residents. Today, the Farina Restoration Group works tirelessly to preserve and restore these historic buildings. We camped at the nearby station campground — an oasis offering essential amenities and a peaceful atmosphere. One of the town’s unique attractions is the underground bakery, open for just eight weeks each year (closing 20 July 2025, so don’t miss out if you’re in the area!). We timed our visit perfectly, indulging in freshly baked bread and pastries, with proceeds supporting the town’s restoration efforts.
Driving the Oodnadatta Track
The Oodnadatta Track is one of Australia’s most iconic outback routes, stretching 670km from Marree to Marla, following the Old Ghan Railway route. Before embarking on this journey, we refuelled and rechecked our supplies in Marree, ensuring our vehicle was in top condition for the challenging drive ahead.
The track can be heavily corrugated, so preparation is key. Our first stop was the quirky Mutonia Sculpture Park, home to the intriguing ‘Plane Henge’ — two silver Beechcraft Baron light planes standing upright with their tails buried in the ground. This art installation, created by a local artist, adds a touch of eccentricity to the rugged landscape. There are some other great installations in this unique outback art collection, so give yourself some time to explore.
Unique stops along the Oodnadatta Track
Continuing along the track, we stopped at the lookout to the vast salt plains of Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre. Just a short drive away, Coward Springs offered a popular stopover, though it was too crowded for our liking. Instead, we opted for the serene Beresford Rest Area, an Old Ghan Railway stop where we enjoyed a peaceful night by a warm campfire.
The track is dotted with remnants of the Old Ghan Railway, including tracks, bridges and railway holdings. These historical sites offer a glimpse into the past, with the landscape alternating between long, straight stretches and pockets of green and red amid the dry terrain.
Driving to the conditions is crucial, especially when towing a caravan, camper or trailer. Securing everything inside, slowing down, using a UHF radio and taking caution at river crossings helped us navigate the track safely.
The best part: meeting locals and fellow travellers
Reaching William Creek Hotel, we relished the chance to reconnect with the outside world, refuel and enjoy some lunch and a cold drink. This iconic pub is a hub of activity, offering scenic flights over Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre and camping facilities across the road.
Our next destination was Algebuckina Bridge, the most significant bridge on the Old Ghan Railway. Spanning 600 metres, this engineering marvel was built in Scotland, shipped to Adelaide and then transported to the Oodnadatta more than 100 years ago and is a testament to early 20th century ingenuity. Camping by the bridge, we marvelled at its structure and the serene water below.
Reaching the Red Centre: Curtin Springs and beyond
On the third day, we arrived at the Pink Roadhouse in Oodnadatta, a must-stop for refuelling and refreshments. From here, travellers can detour to the Painted Desert or Coober Pedy, the ‘opal capital of the world’. We continued to Kathleen Springs, our final campsite on the track, where we enjoyed a peaceful night surrounded by birdlife.
Crossing into the Northern Territory, we stopped at Erldunda Roadhouse for refuelling and a hearty casserole lunch. Here, we met Felix, a young hitchhiker from Victoria with a refreshing perspective on life. Offering him a lift as far as Curtin Springs Station, we enjoyed sharing our travel tales and experiences.
Curtin Springs became our base for the next three nights, offering a vast unpowered camping area with essential amenities. Just an hour from Uluru / Ayers Rock, this pastoral station was the perfect end to our outback adventure.
The journey from Mildura to Curtin Springs had been an exhilarating experience, filled with stunning landscapes, historic sites and the camaraderie of fellow travellers. Each red-dirt kilometre brought new discoveries, making this 4WD adventure one to remember.
Further information
435 Cureton Avenue
Mildura Vic
P: 03 5023 6879
E: holiday@apexriverbeach.com.au
Red Banks Conservation Park is 15km east of Burra. Access the park from Burra via the Burra-Morgan Highway and then the Eastern Road (unsealed). Access is limited after wet weather which may make the tracks in the park impassable.
National Parks and Wildlife Service, Yorke and Mid North Office
P: 08 8841 3400
E: YorkeandMidNorth.NPW@sa.gov.au
No bookings are required.
$20 per car, per night or $10 per person. No bookings required. Barbecues, tables, showers and flushing toilets. Mobile phones work from the top of the hill by the campground and by the new cafe building.
309 Edeowie Road
Flinders Ranges
P: 618 8648 4714
Oodnadatta Track information
To find current track condition information for the Oodnadatta Track visit the Department for Infrastructure and Transport - South Australia website or call 1300 361 033 for a recorded reading of the road condition report.
Check outback weather updates on the Bureau of Meteorology (BOM) and Weatherzone.
Lasseter Highway
Curtin Springs, NT
No fees or bookings required for unpowered sites.
Powered sites should be booked in advance.
P: 08 89562906
E: enquiries@curtinsprings.com
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